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THE 



TAILORS' GUIDE: 



*m 



CONTAINING 



SYSTEMS OF DRAUGHTING 



FROCKAND SACK CO ATS, PANTS, 



VESTS AND SHIRTS. 



WITH VALUABLE IMPROVEMENTS, WARRANTED SUPERIOR 
TO ANYTHING EVER OFFERED TO THE TRADE. 






.*. 



Hi, :e. cole, 

V Practical Cutter for the past 30 years. 



Cj^/P 



Oopv RVht Rourod 
Jan. 18. 1869, 



M ILWAUKEE: 

STARR N SON, BOOK AND JOB PR1NTER5, 41 2 AND 4I4 EAST WATER STREET. 
1868. 










,fir/^^V^ 



L. E. COLE'S 

IMPROVED 

SYSTEM OF DRAUGHTING COATS, 

BY ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 



This system was first published by the proprietor in New York 
in 1835, and now republished with valuable improvements, such 
as have suggested themselves to him during a practical experience 
in using the same during the past thirty years, all of which is 
warranted to fit all shapes and sizes of men, without any variations 
in draughting, it being simply a transfer of inches taken on the 
man and applied on the cloth in draughting, precisely as taken 
thereby, producing a perfect fitting garment for all shapes and 
sizes of men, making it in all respects a perfect self varying rule 
or system of draughting coats ; therefore I now offer this to the 
trade ; and all I claim for it is : that you will give it your most 
critical and careful scrutiny as to its merits and practical utility; 
and believing that this system is what has long been wanted, bv 
the trade, and that if once adopted will never be abandoned, I 
most cheerfully submit the same to your inspection and use. 

L. E. COLE. 

Milwaukee, May, 1868. 



L. E. COLE S TAILORS GUIDE. 



ON MEASURING. 

Plate l.—Figs. 1 ondl. 

It is of the greatest importance in cutting, to measure with the 
utmost care and exactness ; for if this be done in a loose and 
careless manner, exactness in delineating will avail but little. The 
first process towards taking a measure in this system is as follows : 
Let your customer stand in his natural position, with his hands on 
his hips, and his coat buttoned ; then proceed : First make a 
mark at O, or where you wish the collar seam ; also mark out 2J 
inches on collar-seam, as at K, Fig. 1 ; next, mark at L, on Fig. 2, 
where you wish the center of back eye; next, place your tape or 
square at L and M, and mark on top edge of same on back seam 
as at B ; next, place your square in front of arm — the short arm 
in front and pointing upward — crowd the same up in front of arm 
— also the long arm up, as snug under the arm as the customer 
wishes the coat ; while in this position, mark in front of square 
as at H, opposite the top edge of square ; also mark at I, on Fig. 
2 ; then place the square across the back, ranging with I, and mark 
at C on back seam ; next mark at D, the natural waist, and at E 
full length ; next mark out on hip, near where side piece is cut off, 
say 7 inches from D to I ; next, mark at P 2 inches from front of 
coat at waist; next, extend the line from H to G and to front of 
breast ; at 8 next mark out his line from H to G 4 inches ; next 
mark at P, Fig. 1, and at 8 on breast, and at N or the throat. 
You are now ready to take your measure. 

Commence at O A, Fig. 2, and measure down to B 5J, and to 
C 85, and to D 17, and E 19, and full length skirt 36 inches; 
next, place your tape measure at H and measure across under 
arm by I, Fig. 2, to C on back seam 12 inches, and up to O 10 
inches ; next, from H up to K, on Fig. 1, or to where 2J inches 
is marked; on Fig. 2, 9 \ inches, and to O, on Fig. 2, 12 inches; 
and from same point, over shoulder, to B, on Fig. 2, 14|, 
and to C on 2, 16f inches, from same point to J 9 inches, 
and from same point to P, 11* inches ; next commence at G 
and measure up to N 7 inches, and to K 9J, and over shoulder 
to B 15|, and to L, on Fig. 2, 11, and to I 15 inches, and next 



SYSTEM OF DRAUGHTING COATS. 



down to P 10 J inches ; next, from D to J 7 inches ; next raise 
the arm up on a level with B on back, and bend the elbow at right 
angles with back, and measure from B to M 7J inches, and to 
elbow 20, and to hand 32; next measure across breast from arm to 
arm, or 8 to 8, 16 inches, and round neck 10 inches, over vest 
collar ; next, round breast 36 inches, and waist 32 inches. Breast 
and waist measure over vest. 

To draught back, draw line on edge of cloth ; then commence 
at O, and draw line down to E, about two inches in from edge of 
cloth, or first line at E, and square top of back from O to dot on 
top of back, then measure down from O to B 5|, and to C 8i, 
and to D 17, and E 19 inches, and full length of back 36 inches ; 
then measure from O to dot 2J, and from B to back eye on 
line B 7| inches, and from E width back at waist 2 inches, or 
as vou wish ; next, form the shoulder, topjof back, and side seam 
as represented. 

To draught forepart, lay the back on the cloth where it will come 
out best, then extend line C across by H and G to front of breast, 
or as far as necessary; then measure fromC to H 12 inches, and 
to G 16 or 4 inches from H, and to front of breast 20 inches, or 
8 inches from H ; next, measure from Hfunder arm and up to O, 
16 inches, as taken on the man, measure from H to eye, the width 
of square as applied in measuring, and siuare up in front of eye 
as represented ; then form back part of eye and botton, and up to 
line 4 ; next measure from H up to K. 9| inches, and up to 
A 12 inches ; mark in the same range 14f and 16| as taken 
over to B and to C, then sweep from H by K 9i, and by 12, 
14J and lGf ; next mark from H tp J 9 inches, and to P 
Hi inches ; next, commence at G a^d measure up to N 7 
inches, and to K 9J, and over shoulder to B 15J inches, and 
to center of back eye or L, 11 J, and tot 15 inches, and from same 
point to J 11 inches, and to P 10i inijhes ; next, sweep from H 
by J 9 inches, and from G by J 11 inches; next, from where sweep 
crosses at J, measure back to D 7 inchb ; next, carry the back in 
at waist letting it turn on the dot at shoulder blade, until the 
outside of back at D rests on sweep t inches from J; this gives 
the coat the exact spring at waist ; ana while the back is in this 
position, mark side seam from should"- blade to bottom of waist, 
as per dotted lines, hollowing it a little ; then draw line from eye 
down to waist at J and form bottom of side piece to J ; next, 



L. E. COLE S TAILORS GUIDE. 



sweep from H to P 11! inches, and from G by P 10| inches, 
and measure from J to P 9 inches, and form waist seam as 
represented ; next, Sweep from G by K 9!, and by B 15! 
inches, then place thi back, the dot, or 2! inches from A, on 
the point where the two sweeps, cross at K from H and G, and the 
point at B on back seam ; on the point where the two sweeps, 
cross from H to B 14f, and G to B 15!, and while the back 
is in this position form the shoulder seam and the remainder of 
eye, and gorge from A and K to N 16 inches, and allow one inch 
for making up ; then form breast from N to P, the length as 
taken on the man ; also apply waist measure from D to J and to 
P, and allow 2 inches for making up for fish. 



TO DRAUGHT FROCK COAT SKIRT. 

Obtain the pitch of skirt in front by laying the forepart on in 
a joining position at waist, and drawing a line running in range 
of front of breast to about 3 inches in from the bottom of skirt 
in front ; also place the side piece in a joining position at waist, 
and mark the fold in ranre of side seam to bottom of skirt, then 
round the fold as per diagram. 

To draught sleeve, draw a line on the edge of cloth, or where 
you wish to take out the sleeve, and square cross top from R to 
A is one inch, and to S 4 inches or width of eye, then square from 
S to T, measure from S to T 8 and from D to 8 — 8 inches or half 
the size of eye, draw line from 11 by 8, 8 inches from and parallel 
with front line, or half the size, then form from S the top of 
sleeve head to 11, then take off" width of back and measure to 
elbow 19 and to hand 32, length of sleeve ; add on 2 inches at 
elbow from 8 to 10, and f>rm sleeve as represented, any width at 
hand you choose; form unler side as represented. 



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L. E. COLE'S 

IMPROVED SELF VARYING SYSTEM 

OF 

DRAUGHTING PANTS, 



ON NEW PRINCIPLES. 

C»pv R'tflt S rvmi 

Jj,u.i8.1809. 



This system is entirely new with the proprietor, and first pub- 
lished in 1858 and now republished with valuable improvements, and 
warranted to fit all shapes, either corpulent or regular form, with- 
out any variations in draughting; all pants being draughted by 
this system precisely the same, and nothing would induce him to 
republish this system at this time but a firm belief that it is not 
only the best, but the only system ever published founded upon 
true scientific principles of actual measurement, every part being 
draughted by its own measure thereby giving to each part the exact 
quantity of cloth required and in the right place, and no more. 
The important features of this system differing from all others are 
the establishment of a base or working line running from the waist 
to the instep through the centre of the leg, and by working each 
way from this line at waist, thigh, knee and bottom, giving to each 
part the number of inches called for and no more. Pants draughted 
by this system never twist, but always hang perfectly square and 
can be cut any shape either half and half on each side of base line 
or top side narrow at any part, as what comes off from top side is 
added to under side, always allowing one-half the size of leg at 
any part on each side of base line, as that is the center of both 
top and under sides, center of instep and center of heel, center of 
knee, thigh and waist. I think a glance at the principles of this 
system and its working, is sufficient to convince any practical cut- 



L. E. COLE S TAILORS GUIDE. 



ter of its superiority over any and all other systems now in use. 
Hundreds of testimonials of its superiority could be given from 
those now using it, but it is deemed unnecessary as the principle 
fully shows for itself, and feeling the fullest confidence that this 
system, if once adopted, will never be abandoned, I cheerfully 
submit it to your inspection and use. 



L. E. COLE. 



Milwaukee, May, 1868. 



TO MEASURE FOR PANTS. 

Plate 2. 

Commence at top of hip bone and measure down to knee, 22 
inches, and to bottom 42; next inside leg measure to sole of boot 
next to boot heel 32 inches, next round waist, hips, seat, thigh, 
knee, bottom; 28-34-36-21-17-17. 

To draught upper side or diagram A by this system, first 
draw line on edge of cloth from O to C at bottom, next meas- 
ure down from O to B 22 and to C 42, next up to A 32, next 
draw line from A to D 2J inches in from C, next measure 
in from D to K 17, scale A bottom measure next sweep from 
K by P to N at knee and from A to H at thigh, and from O to I 
at waist, next measure in from A to E 21, scale A, thigh measure; 
next draw base line or working line from K by E to J at waist and 
from this line you work each way by placing the center of draughting 
scale on this line, the protractor pointing down and mark out each 
way from waist, thigh, knee and bottom according to the measures 
taken, as each part is draughted by its own measure, no one meas- 
ure having anything to do with the other; place the scale on base 
line at waist and mark each way 14, scale A waist measure, next 
mark out from E to A 21, scale A thigh measure, and to F 21, 
scale B, and to G 21, scale A thigh measure, and add the dress to 
H, then place center of scale at M and mark each way to P and 
N, scale A knee measure, next from K to L 17, scale B bottom 
measure, then draw line from F to I and from G to N and L at 



SV'STEM OF DRAUGHTING PANTS. 



bottom, then form from I to G and from I to H for dress, and 
from A to R and from H to N and bottom as represented. 

To draught under side or diagram B, lay the upper side on the 
cloth where it will come out best; then extend the base line from 
J to U, next extend the sweeps from G to S and from J to T at 
waist, from J to T is one-fourth the size of waist, and V taken 
out, from G to S is 21, scale C thigh measure, add to under side 
at N till they will make up the required size, 17 inches, also add 
from 17 upper side at bottom to 17 under side till they make up 
17 inches, the required size as per measure; from J to U is 14, 
scale A waist measure, on sweep from F by R; see diagram A; 
draw line from U to T, and take out V, and form top as repres- 
ented ; draw line from U to C at fork, next apply hip measure 34, 
and from 3 to 4, seat measure, 36 inches, then form from U to C 
and S, and from T to knee and to bottom as represented, dropping 
the point at SS, about one inch, and stretching the same up as 
marked on diagram B ; also stretching in the curve at G, C on 
under side has a very beautiful effect in the fit of pants. 

Diagram C is draughted the same as diagram B in all respects, 
giving to each part the required number of inches called for as 
taken on the man — it shows the difference between the regular form 
and the corpulent one. This being the form of the corpulent 
man, and the distance each way from J to K and J to I being 21 
each way, instead of 14 on the regular form at waist, and from 3 to 
4, seat measure, 44 instead of 36 on diagram B. 

I think this illustration of the different forms, and the different 
shapes produced, will convince any practical cutter of the true self 
varying principles of this system over any other system. 

Diagrams D and E are on the same principle of draughting, 
only showing the manner of draughting side band goods, as you 
cannot hollow the top side at knee, it requires all the hollowing on 
the underside at the knee, as represented on diagram D. 

Diagram E shows the manner of taking the measure as applied 
on diagram A and B. 



L- E. COLE'S 

IMPROVED 

SYSTEM OF DRAUGHTING COATS, 

BY ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 



TO DRAUGHT SACK COAT AND SHORT 
BUSINESS FROCK. 

Plate 3. 

This plate contains the draught of Sack Coat in full, also Short 
Business Frock. 

In measuring for Sack Coat you proceed the same as for Frock 
Coats, on plate 1, figs. 1 and 2, except you will not measure to or 
mark at J at hip, or at P at front of waist. After marking all the 
necessary points, you will take your measures as follows : from O 
to B 5, and to C 8 and to D natural waist 16, and to bottom 30 
inches ; next place your tape at H, and measure across under arm 
to C 12 inches, and up to O A 16 inches, next from H to K 9 J, 
and to O 12 inches, and over to B 14f , and to C 161 inches, next 
commence at G and measure to N 7 and to K 9 J and to B 15 i 
inches from G to center of back eye, to center of back eye III 
and to I 15 inches, next place the arm at right angles and measure 
from B to M 7i, and to elbow 20 and to hand 32 inches, next 
across breast and around neck 16 and 16 inches, next around 
breast 36 inches. 

To draft back, commence at O and measure down to B 5, and to 
C 8, and to waist 16, and full length 30 inches ; width of back at 
top 2| inches ; square across at B and C and D and at bottom ; 
next measure out on line B 7J, and on line C 6 inches ; draw line 
from 6 to bottom of back parallel with back seam, and from the 
back as you please. 



14 L. E. COLE S TAILORS GUIDE. 

To draft forepart, place the back on the cloth, and extend line 
across to front of breast, then measure from C to H 12 inches, 
and to G 16 or 4 from H and to front of breast, and allow 2 
inches from 8 to front ; measure back from H to eye 1 inch or 
width of square, as use in measuring, then square up in front of 
eye as per diagram ; next place tape at H and measure up to K 
9i, and to O, top back, 12 inches ; measure in same range 14f 
and 16f inches ; then sweep from H by K 9£, 12, 14| and 16| 
inches ; next commence at G and measure up to N 7, and to K 9i, 
and to B 15|- inches ; next from G to L 11 J, and to I 15 inches ; 
next place the back on point 21- inches, touching point where 
sweep from H and G crosses at K, and point B where sweep from 
H and G crosses at B on back, then form the shoulder seam, and 
form gorge from K to N ; next from eye and breast add on about 
two inches at bottom of forepart at back, and draw line from line 
D to bottom, and shape side seam as per diagram. 

To draught sleeve, from O to 1 is 1 inch, and to 4 is 4 inches, 
or width of eye ; from 4 to 15 is 15 inches or size of eye ; draw 
line 15 to bottom of sleeve parallel with front line ; allow about 
2 inches at 19 ; place the back at top of sleeve, and measure from 
outside of back to elbow at 19, and to 31 length of sleeve 31 
inches, and form sleeve as represented. 

Diagram A, B, C, D, are draughted the same in all respects as 
frock coat on Plate 1. 



SYSTEM OF DRAUGHTING COATS. 15 



TO DRAUGHT OVER COAT AND CAPE. 

Plate 4. 

To draught this over-coat and cape, you will proceed in all 
respects the same as in draughting sack under coat, on plate 3, 
except you will add to all the measure taken from O, E and F, as 
follows : from O to B 1 inch, and from E to B 1 inch, and from 
E to O at top of back, and to H, A, B, each 1 inch, as you will 
see the allowance is made already in the draught, and marked in 
figures on the lines, as from E to B 13 1 instead of 12 J as taken 
on the man ; also from E to H, A and B 13i, 15|, and 18, in- 
stead of 12?, 14|, and 17, as taken on the man ; also allow 2 
inches across breast in forming all parts. See diagrams A, B and C. 

This diagram shows a very good way of cutting a first rate 
fitting cape by the gorge of coat with the back in a joining 
position. 

TO MEASURE FOR VEST. 

With Delineator. 

Take the length from socket bone at neck over shoulder and 
down to hip and in front, then round the breast, waist and neck, 
also the heighth of roll. This vest is draughted by a delineator 
made for the purpose, and warranted good. In draughting vest, 
proceed as follows: Draw line on edge of cloth, then draw 2d line 
2 inches inside and parallel with the first and square the top, then 
take the delineator and place the edge of same on inside line and let 
the figures 36 rest on the top line; then mark along in the different 
spaces and along the bottom of delineator, and then mark at 36 in 
each space and on the front and bottom, then form the vest from 
point to point marking from one point to the other by the marks 
made at the figures 36, or any other size you wish to draught as 
the figures in the space all indicate the different breast measures 
and are all applied as above. 

The back is draughted the same way by placing the delineator 
on line O fig. 36, at top resting on top line, then mark in all the 
spaces as in draughting forepart then forming from one point to 
the other. 

This delineator cuts a beautiful fitting vest and cannot be beat. 



i6 l. e. cole's tailors' guide. 



TO DRAUGHT SHIRT. 

Plate 4. 

Diagrams A, B and C of shirt draught, shows a plan of draught- 
ing a shirt ; and I guarantee it to be one of the best fitting shirts 
ever got up in this country. It is all right. 

The measures for shirt are taken as follows : first measure from 
O length of shirt, next length of sleeve from Socket bone at O, 
letting the arm hang down, measure from O over the shoulder 
down to hand, say 32, and full length of wrist band 34 ; next 
round neck 16, and breast 38 for this draught. This draught is 
38 breast. 

To draught the back, commence at O, from O down to 1 is 1 
inch ; to 2 is 3| , to 3, 81 ; to 4, 11* ; to 5, 20* ; to 6, 31 ; and 
to A, 35 inches. Square out from line O at 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and A ; 
next mark out on top from O to T 2 J inches ; next out on line 
2, 9f ; on 3, 9* ; on 4, 12 ; on 5, 10 ; on 6, 12* ; form bottom 
of back from A to 12J ; where shirt is left open at bottom, draw 
line from T to 9f to 9* and to C, and from 12 by 10 to 12 i as 
represented. 

To draught front of shirt, commence at O ; measure down 2, 3*, 
7*, lOJ, 19*, 30 and 34 inches ; then square out from 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 
and B ; next measure in from O 3* ; at 2, 2* ; and on line 2, 
9* ; line 3, 12 ; line 4, 12* ; line 5, 12i ; and form line B as you 
see to 12* ; draw line from A to D, and form from D by 9* to 
C, and from C by 12 J to 12* at bottom as represented ; next cut 
a piece the shape of a yoke, and place on as you see, covering 
shoulder seam, to be be stitched on same as yoke. 

Diagram C or sleeve : commence at O, measure down on O 
line 2*, 11* and 22 ; square out O line, and at 1, 2, and at hand 
inches ; then form sleeve as per diagram. Make cuff any width 
or size vou wish. 



Table of Inches for Draughting Shirts by Inch Tape Measure, on Plate 4— A B and C. 


Op £ UIOJJ 




s? 


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flO 


CO 




CO 


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35 

CO 


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CO 


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T* 




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CO 


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a? a? 

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CJ T* 


-, 


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if? 

en en 


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:smo||ojse >|OEg 

H!US luBnEJQ 01 


C* CO 

TO TO 


CO 


m co 


t- 


00 


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■* 


■* 


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CO -P 


in 



THE 



TAILORS' GUIDE: 



CONTAINING 



SYSTEMS OF DRAUGHTING 

! FROCK AND SACK COATS, PANTS, 

VESTS AND SHIRTS, 



WITH VALUABLE IMPROVEMENTS, WARRANTED SUPERIOR 
TO ANYTHING EVER OFFERED TO THE TRADE. 









BY 










Xj. 


IE. COLE 

i tor the past 30 years. 


5 




Copf R';?!it S 'cured 
Jan.18.1869. 








M I LWAUKEE: 






STARR 


& SON 


, BOOK 


AND JOB PRINTERS, 4I2 AND 4I4 EAST 
1868. 


WATER 


STREET. 



mmmmmm 






»S£ SgSSRBi;"* 



MAlAiW 



XC^" ' $&>' 









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